More Info
Recently, Astronomy magazine ran a "buyer's guide" to portable 4" apochromatic refractors. All were impressive telescopes, no doubt. But considering their price tags, which ranged from $2,695 (yes, that was the cheapest) to $3,595, you'd be excused if you didn't run right out and throw down your credit card for one.
Here's something more practical: Our Orion 100mm ED Apochromatic Refractor Telescope Optical Tube. Priced well under $1,000, it's by far the most jaw-dropping value in high-end refractors ever offered. The extra-low dispension 100 delivers images remarkably free of chromatic aberration, thanks to its fully multi-coated 100mm objective doublet. It's crafted with one element of FPL-53 extra-low dispersion (ED) optical glass from Japan. The 100mm aperture gives it 56% greater light grasp than our ED80, and the 900mm focal length (f/9.0) is ideal for visual planetary and lunar study and excels for imaging work as well.
The baffled, 36"-long aluminum telescope optical tube is outfitted with a 2" Crayford-style focuser for exceptionally smooth focusing with no backlash. It accepts both 2" and 1.25" diagonals. A molded-in dovetail base accepts any Orion finder scope.
The revolution in affordable apochromatic refractors continues with the Orion 100 Extra-Low Dispension Apochromatic Refractor Telescope Optical Tube. Order yours today.
Warranty
Limited Warranty against defects in materials or workmanship for one year from date of purchase. This warranty is for the benefit of the original retail purchaser only. For complete warranty details contact us at 800-676-1343.
Warning
Please note this product was not designed or intended by the manufacturer for use by a child 12 years of age or younger.
Product Support
Visit our product support section for instruction manuals and more
Specs
Best for viewing
Brighter deep sky
Best for imaging
Deep sky
User level
Beginner - Telescopes suited for beginners are easy to use and maintain. Very good optical and mechanical quality. A great first telescope that will show you the moon and planets.
Intermediate -Telescopes for the intermediate user are more robust in features and performance. Excellent quality in optics and mechanics, and more complex in use. An intermediate telescope will allow an enthusiast to "grow" in the hobby.
Advanced - Advanced telescopes are high performance, with exceptional quality. They may require more commitment to use in set-up time and technical savvy. Some advanced telescopes are easy-to-use but large and heavy. An advanced telescope is a purchase for a lifetime.
Expert - Expert telescopes offer uncompromising optical and mechanical quality for the most demanding amateur astronomer. They may be technically involved or designed for specialized use, such as astrophotography or detailed deep sky observation. They carry a premium price; but are designed to provide the ultimate performance in the field.
Advanced
Optical design
A small, quality achromatic refractor of 60mm to 80mm aperture makes a fine starter scope for observing the Moon and major planets. They're affordable ($100 to $350), portable, and maintenance-free, all desirable factors if you're just "testing the waters" of Astronomy. If nebulas and galaxies are your main interest, a Newtonian reflector or Schmidt-Cassegrain is the way to go. Moving up to a 90mm or 100mm refractor will snare more objects and provide better performance, for a higher price. Renowned for crisp, sharp images, refractors are the priciest per inch of aperture of all telescope types. A refractor is the scope of choice if you will be doing most of your stargazing from city or suburbs, where the night skies are moderately light-polluted. Since viewing is restricted mostly to the Moon and planets a big scope would only amplify the skyglow, yielding poor washed out images. Reflectors Newtonian reflectors are great all-around scopes, offering generous apertures at affordable prices. They excel for both planetary and deep-sky viewing. Of course, the larger the aperture, the more you'll see. Smaller, 3" and 4.5" equatorially mounted Newtonians will provide a nice "survey" of celestial luminaries, and they maintain their portability. Six-inch and 8" Newts have enough aperture to deliver captivating images of fainter star-clusters, galaxies, and nebulas-especially in a reasonably dark sky. Although the 6" to 8" Newts are bulkier and weigh more, with a Dobsonian mount they are easily manageable by one person making them a wonderful beginner scopes. Dobsonian-mounted reflectors have lower price tags than their equatorial counterparts, starting in the mid-$300s for a 6" Dob. Schmidt-Cassegrains If portability is important to you, you might want to consider a "catadioptric" scope such as a Schmidt-Cassegrain or Maksutov-Cassegrain. They pack a hefty aperture into a very compact tube. An 8" Schmidt-Cassegrain provides excellent views of the Moon, planets, and deep-sky objects, and is well suited for astrophotography. Schmidt-Cassegrains should be considered as an investment priced over $1000 for the most basic 8" models (and hundreds more to outfit it for astrophotography). The Bottom Line Now that you've received the crash course on telescopes, here's some parting advice for aspiring astronomers: Get as much aperture as you can reasonably handle. Big aperture is desirable, however you don't want to end up with a scope that is too big or complicated to conveniently set up, haul around-and use! Also, avoid those gee-whiz, techno-toy scopes with the hefty price tags that are showing up in the big chain stores. For a first telescope, we recommend a basic refractor of 90mm aperture or smaller, or a Newtonian reflector of 6" aperture or less, unless you're really committed. After you've learned the basics of observing and developed an appreciation for the hobby, then you can move up to a bigger, fancier scope.
Refractor
Optical diameter
The optical diameter (also known as aperture), is the size of the telescope's main light collecting lens or mirror, measured in millimeters or inches. As the diameter increases, more light is collected and the resolution increases.
100mm
Focal length
The focal ratio of an optical system is the ratio of a telescope's focal length to its aperture. Short focal ratios (f/5, f/4.5) produce wide fields of view and small image scales, while long focal lengths produce narrower fields of views and larger image scales.
900mm
Focal ratio
The focal ratio of an optical system is the ratio of a telescope's focal length to its aperture. Short focal ratios (f/5, f/4.5) produce wide fields of view and small image scales, while long focal lengths produce narrower fields of views and larger image scales.
f/9.0
Coatings
Lenses are coated with an antireflective material to ensure that as little light as possible is reflected away, so more gets to your eye. Good lenses are at least "fully coated," with a single layer of magnesium fluoride applied to each air-to-glass lens surface. Multiple layers of coatings are even more effective; the term "multi-coated" means one or more lens surfaces have multiple coatings. "Fully multi-coated" is even better, meaning that all lens surfaces are multiple-layer coated.
Mirror star diagonals are coated with a reflective material similar to telescope mirrors in order to reflect the light into the eyepiece. Standard aluminum coatings reflect between 88%-92%, and enhanced aluminum reflects 97%.
Dielectric coatings use a different process to deposit a coating that reflects 99% of the light. In addition to the higher reflectivity, Dielectric coatings are much more durable than aluminum coatings, so they last longer and can be cleaned with less risk of damage.
Fully multi-coated
Optics type
Newtonian reflectors will have either a spherical shaped mirror, which is less expensive to produce, or a higher quality parabola, which does not result in spherical aberration. Cassegrain telescopes routinely use spheres in addition to other lenses in the optical path to correct for residual spherical aberration.
Refractors use a series of lenses to provide a clear image. Designs range from a standard air-spaced doublet (two lenses in a row) to exotic designs such as oil-spaced triplets and 4-element multi group lenses.
Air-spaced doublet
Glass material
Refractors use glass lenses to focus the light, and the glass material plays an important role in the quality of the resulting image. Standard achromatic refractors routinely use Crown and Flint for the two elements, but more expensive apochromatic refractors can use ED (extra low dispersion) glass for one or more of the lenses. Reflector mirrors are made from glass with different levels of thermal expansion. Standard mirrors are made from material such as Soda-Lime Plate glass and BK-7 glass. Glass with Pyrex or other low thermal expansion material will not change shape as dramatically during the cool-down period, resulting in more stable images during this period.
Extra low dispersion FPL-53
Resolving power
The theoretical resolving power of a telescope can be calculated with the following formula: Resolving power (in arc seconds) = 4.56 divided by aperture of telescope (in inches). In metric units, this is: Resolving power (in arc seconds) = 116 divided by aperture of telescope (in millimeters). Note that the formula is independent of the telescope type or model, and is based only upon the aperture of the telescope. So the larger the telescope's aperture, the more it is capable of resolving. This is important to keep in mind when observing astronomical objects which require high resolution for best viewing, such as planets and double stars. However, it is usually atmospheric seeing conditions (not the telescope) which limits the actual resolving power on a given night; rarely is resolution less than one arc-second possible from even the best viewing locations on Earth.
1.16arc*sec
Lowest useful magnification
Lowest useful magnification is the power at which the exit pupil becomes 7mm in diameter. Powers below this can still be reached with the telescope to give wider fields of view, but the image no longer becomes brighter at a lower power. This is due to the fact that the exit pupil of the telescope (the beam of light exiting the eyepiece) is now larger than the average person's dark adapted pupil, and no more light can fit into the eye.
16x
Highest useful magnification
The highest practical limit is different from the often used "highest theoretical magnification" specification. The "theoretical" limit generally is 50x the aperture of the scope in inches (2x the aperture in mm). So for example, an 80mm refractor is capable of 160x, and a 10" telescope is theoretically capable of 500x magnification.
But after approximately 300x, theory breaks down and real world problems take over. The atmosphere above us is constantly in motion, and it will distort the image seen through the telescope. This effect may not be noticeable at lower powers, but at higher powers the atmosphere will dramatically blur the object, reducing the quality of the image. On a good night (a night where the air above is steady and the stars aren't twinkling), the practical upper limit of a large telescope is 300x, even thought the theoretical limit may be much higher. This doesn't mean the scope will never be able to reach those higher "theoretical" powers - there will be that rare night where the atmosphere is perfectly still and the scope can be pushed past it's practical limit, but those nights will be few and far between.
200x
Highest theoretical magnification
200x
Optical quality
"Diffraction Limited" means that the limits of image detail are determined by the physical properties of light, and not by optical defects in the telescope.
Diffraction limited
Mount type
Optical Tube without Mount
Astro-imaging capability
The astro-photographic capability of the telescope is based on the style, stability, and accuracy of the mount and tripod. Telescopes on either very lightweight mounts or non tracking mounts (such as Dobsonians) are capable of only very short exposures such as lunar photographs. If a motor drive is attached to an equatorial mount, even a small lightweight mount is capable of capturing some planetary detail. Larger EQ mounts that utilize very precise tracking and excellent stability are capable of longer exposure deep-sky photography.
Lunar, planetary & long exposure
Length of optical tube
36.0 in.
Weight, optical tube
7.0 lbs.
Additional included accessories
Camera adapter
Other features
One element ED glass in apochromatic primary lens, Crayford focuser, Machined aluminum lens cell
In the Box
Orion Apochromatic Refractor optical tube assembly
2" - 1.25" eyepiece adapter
Dust cap
Starry Night special edition software
Shipping Info
Orders received by noon Pacific Time for in-stock items ship the same business day. Orders received after noon will ship the next business day. When an item is not in-stock we will ship it as soon as it becomes available. Typically in-stock items will ship first and backordered items will follow as soon as they are available. You have the option in check out to request that your order ship complete, if you'd prefer.
A per-item shipping charge (in addition to the standard shipping and handling charge) applies to this product due to its size and weight. This charge varies based on the shipping method.
Standard Delivery: $0.00 3 Day Air Delivery: $15.00 2 Day Delivery: $15.00 Next Day Delivery: $21.00
How do I calculate the magnification (power) of a telescope?
To calculate the magnification, or power, of a telescope with an eyepiece, simply divide the focal length of the telescope by the focal length of the eyepiece. Magnification = telescope focal length ÷ eyepiece focal length. For example, the Orion 100mm ED Refractor Telescope, which has a focal length of 900mm, used in combination with a 25mm eyepiece, yields a power of: 900 ÷ 25 = 36x.
It is desirable to have a range of telescope eyepieces of different focal lengths to allow viewing over a range of magnifications. It is not uncommon for an observer to own five or more eyepieces. Orion offers many different eyepieces of varying focal lengths.
Every telescope has a theoretical limit of power of about 50x per inch of aperture (i.e. 200x for the Orion 100mm ED). Atmospheric conditions will limit the usefullness of magnification and cause views to become blurred. The highest useful magnification of a telescope of the Orion 100mm ED is 200x. Claims of higher power by some telescope manufacturers are a misleading advertising gimmick and should be dismissed. Keep in mind that at higher powers, an image will always be dimmer and less sharp (this is a fundamental law of optics). With every doubling of magnification you lose half the image brightness and three-fourths of the image sharpness. The steadiness of the air (the “seeing”) can also limit how much magnification an image can tolerate. Always start viewing with your lowest-power (longest focal length) eyepiece in the telescope. It’s best to begin observing with the lowest-power eyepiece, because it will typically provide the widest true field of view, which will make finding and centering objects much easier After you have located and centered an object, you can try switching to a higher-power eyepiece to ferret out more detail, if atmospheric conditions permit. If the image you see is not crisp and steady, reduce the magnification by switching to a longer focal length eyepiece. As a general rule, a small but well-resolved image will show more detail and provide a more enjoyable view than a dim and fuzzy, over-magnified image.
Does the atmosphere play a role in how good the quality of the image will be?
Atmospheric conditions play a huge part in quality of viewing. In conditions of good “seeing”, star twinkling is minimal and objects appear steady in the eyepiece. Seeing is best over-head, worst at the horizon. Also, seeing generally gets better after midnight, when much of the heat absorbed by the Earth during the day has radiated off into space. Typically, seeing conditions will be better at sites that have an altitude over about 3000 feet. Altitude helps because it decreases the amount of distortion causing atmosphere you are looking through. A good way to judge if the seeing is good or not is to look at bright stars about 40 degrees above the horizon. If the stars appear to “twinkle”, the atmosphere is significantly distorting the incoming light, and views at high magnifications will not appear sharp. If the stars appear steady and do not twinkle, seeing conditions are probably good and higher magnifications will be possible. Also, seeing conditions are typically poor during the day. This is because the heat from the Sun warms the air and causes turbulence. Good “transparency” is especially important for observing faint objects. It simply means the air is free of moisture, smoke, and dust. These tend to scatter light, which reduces an object’s brightness. One good way to tell if conditions are good is by how many stars you can see with your naked eye. If you cannot see stars of magnitude 3.5 or dimmer then conditions are poor. Magnitude is a measure of how bright a star is, the brighter a star is, the lower its magnitude will be. A good star to remember for this is Megrez (mag. 3.4), which is the star in the “Big Dipper” connecting the handle to the “dipper”. If you cannot see Megrez, then you have fog, haze, clouds, smog, light pollution or other conditions that are hindering your viewing. Another hint: Good seeing can vary minute to minute. Watch the planets for a while to pick-up those moments of good seeing.
Is there an eyepiece available that will rotate the image so that it can be used for scenic viewing?
We carry correct-image prism diagonals which provide right-side up non-reversed images in refractor and cassegrain telescopes. It is not possible to correct the image orientation in a reflector telescope.
How do I clean any of the optical lenses?
Any quality optical lens cleaning tissue and optical lens cleaning fluid specifically designed for multi-coated optics can be used to clean the exposed lenses of your eyepieces or finder scope. Never use regular glass cleaner or cleaning fluid designed for eyeglasses. Before cleaning with fluid and tissue, blow any loose particles off the lens with a blower bulb or compressed air. Then apply some cleaning fluid to a tissue, never directly on the optics. Wipe the lens gently in a circular motion, then remove any excess fluid with a fresh lens tissue. Oily finger-prints and smudges may be removed using this method. Use caution; rubbing too hard may scratch the lens. On larger lenses, clean only a small area at a time, using a fresh lens tissue on each area. Never reuse tissues.
How do I take Planetary Photos?
Once basic Moon photography has been mastered, it’s time to get images of the planets. This type of astrophotography also works to get highly magnified shots of the Moon. In addition to the T-ring, you will need a Universal 1.25" Camera Adapter. A motor drive system (single or dual axis) is also required. This is because a longer exposure is necessary, which would cause the image to blur if no motor drive was used for tracking. The equatorial mount must be accurately polar aligned, too. As before, connect the T-ring to your camera. Before connecting the Universal camera adapter to the T-Ring, an eyepiece must be inserted and locked into the body of the Universal camera adapter. Start by using a medium-low power eyepiece (about 25mm); you can increase the magnification later with a high-power eyepiece. Then connect the entire camera adapter, with eyepiece inside, to the T-Ring. Insert the whole system into the telescope’s focuser drawtube and secure firmly with the thumbscrews. Aim the telescope at the planet (or Moon) you wish to shoot. The image will be highly magnified, so you may need to use the finder scope to center it within the camera’s viewfinder. Turn the motor drive on. Adjust the telescope’s focuser so that the image appears sharp in the camera’s viewfinder. The camera’s shutter is now ready to be opened. A remote shutter release or shutter timer must be used or the image will be blurred beyond recognition. Try exposure times between 1 and 10 seconds, depending upon the brightness of the planet to be photographed and the ISO of the film being used. We’ve also seen good digital snapshots of images taken through the telescope’s eyepiece with the SteadyPix adapter.
Reviews
Orion ED100 100mm f/9 Apochromatic Refractor Telescope 7
7
Already have a good mount but want another scope to put on it? Orion's 100mm ED refractor telescope is perfect for the advanced observer or astrophotographer wanting great views at an amazing price. The ED glass provides very low color distortion.